I decided to relocate the stock 350 (5.7L) oil filter for 3 reasons:
Front 4X4 drive shaft & differential room, to give more header/exhaust room & to decrease heat transfer between the oil filter, header & transmission.
Since I wanted the oil filter completely out of the way, I did not use a kit that just offsets the oil filter to a few inches away.
This method was also much cheaper than buying a V8 bolt on block adapter, with a remote oil filter kit that comes with oil lines – the adapter bolts to the block where the oil filter goes (the stock 4.3L unit is too small). NOTE: The V8 block I used (from a 98 truck) came with 2 oil lines that are tapped into the middle of the block & run to the radiator and are used for oil cooling - as many newer blocks have. PARTS NEEDED 1 stock 4.3L remote oil filter fender wall assembly
2 brass reduction coupler fittings (4.3L to 5.7L oil lines)
1 piece of oil gasket (high temp) material – custom cut
1 metal disk ~ 3/16" thick (I used aluminum/magnesium plate)
1 brass plumbing fitting (female thread)
1 copper plumbing end cap
1 small piece of gasket material (grey is better than the cork colored)
First remove (unscrew) the center metal fitting from the block, that the oil filter screws onto.
 Then make a disk out of metal that covers the entire raised lip of the oil filter socket on the block. I used a metal blade on a band saw & smoothed edges with a grinder. One could cut the metal with a hacksaw, then grind it round. Next, drill a hole in the center of the disk that is the same as the outside diameter of the block fitting. Now place the disk on the gasket material & trace the outside & hole, then cut the gasket to the outlined shape.
 
Take the block fitting to a hardware store & find a female-threaded brass plumbing fitting that screw onto it. It will also have a smooth male part that a copper end cap can be soldered onto. Solder onto the brass fitting (the non-threaded male end!) a copper plumbing end cap. 
Coat the gasket with high temp grease on the disk side & some oil on the block side, then place it on the disk, the grease helps the gasket to stick to the disk. Then put the block fitting (the side with the longest threads) through the hole in the disk & gasket & screw it back into the block making sure the disk & gasket seal well. Then screw the soldered plumbing fitting onto the block fitting threads that are sticking out of the disk - hi-temp silicone tape can be used. 
Lastly, extend the oil cooling lines to the remote fender wall oil filter assembly & use the 2 brass reduction coupler fittings to mate the 5.7L oil lines to the filter assembly. You can also cut & join the 4.3L lines to the 5.7L lines with couplers if you want more length. Then the 4.3L lines will go right into the adapter. You will need to use a flaring tool to attach the brass couplings. Make sure the in & out lines go to the in & out sides of the oil filter assembly for proper oil flow direction through the filter. 
Attach oil filter, FILL WITH OIL, START UP & CHECK FOR LEAKS TIGHTEN AS REQUIRED. Then check tightness whenever you do an oil change. Mine has never leaked in almost 6 years. Submitted By: Dougofthenorth
Edited By: betterthanyou | 
